Private Collection Jasmine White Moss will be the "closing chapter" of the Private Collection series which includes Tuberose Gardenia and Amber Ylang Ylang, a collection above and beyond the run-of-the-mill fragrances of the mainstream sector while at the same time remaining unintimidating and utterly modern in feel. The series managed to inject an upscale touch to the Lauder giant with its limited distribution and its ornamental bejeweled flacons & solids compacts, yet it is the essences hidden inside that prove it's still possible to produce quality jus in those days of rationing and dumping down of the market at large.

While Tuberose Gardenia went for a remarkably alive white floral with gardenia unfurling its waxy petals in front of your very eyes and Amber Ylang Ylang enhanced the familiar amber's unguent with soft lappings of powdery sexiness, Jasmine White Moss goes for the kill and proposes a nouveau chypre. Much maligned as a term that last bit might be however, the resurgence of the august family of chypre fragrances is a market fact: The mossy earthy bases (focused on vetiver & patchouli, often along with synthetic Evernyl, cedar and treemoss) in several fragrances launched in the last few years prove its durability as a genre, even in altered states. Estée Lauder herself seemed deeply enchanted with the abstract harmonies of the typical chypre formula, supervising several in her lifetime: Azurée (1969), Alliage ~also spelled Aliage for the US market~ (1972), Private Collection (1973) and Knowing (1988).

Now comes Jasmine White Moss: Inspired by the spirit of Estée (née Josephine Esther Mentzer) and categorized as a floral, green chypre, being the closest of the trio in terms of fragrance family ties to the original Private Collection. Aerin Lauder, supervisor of the new scent and depicted in a white jersey vintage Halston dress with a white flower in her hair in the print ads says:

“…there is a lot of Estée in this project. We chose the blue stone accents [of white jade, dark and light lapis, sodalite, black agate, mother-of-pearl and blue lace agate] because blue was her favorite color; a basket weave design on the cap, since that was one of her favorite textures; her signature is on the lower right side of the bottle, and of course the juice began as her project.”

Well, gorgeous-
This one is FBW, no doubt.
I was able to get the edp; the parfum hasn't yet arrived on the scene- but I've reserved one.

This harkens back to the days of Diorella and other lovely chypres; my DH went wild for it [ something he is not often wont to do].

The parfum is really rich and deep.

I am NOT one to shell out Amouage prices for Estee Lauder; this will be my first time.

It's funny how they managed to do this so well, eh? The Private Collection Series is quite well-made and although I usually turn up my nose at what I perceive as efforts of "upscaling" (there is no need) who can resist the quality of the compositions? I bet that the parfum would be incredible. The Tuberose Gardenia one is lovely, so I assume they went the whole hog with this one too.
Is it as expensive as all that though? (don't know an exact price yet)

Thanks much for the background on the noses for Lauder scents. Your trail has personal associations, as it connects some open threads for me...Norell, the scent that started me down the perfume path, is unmasked, shown to share a parent with Fidji (a scent I have enjoyed dancing with but not yet established a partnership with), and associated with Aliage and Azuree (two scents I have absolutely partnered with).

Your review guaranteed it that it would get a test drive as soon as it becomes available; Chaya's feedback only heightens the expectation. While a new release often benefits from the first flush of excitement, this one definitely sounds like it has potential for the long haul.

Hi, E. I quite enjoyed this too, when I tested it yesterday. My initial reaction was that it bore some similarity to Cristalle EdT. I'm curious to try the parfum version. *sniffs hopefully over chayaruchama's shoulder*

S,

you're welcome and thanks for chimming in with personal experiences. I quite like Fidji and should review it soon, it's summery and yet...poised. And Norell has a very American vibe to it, in the sense of wasp moneyed ladies. (at least to me)

JWM is quite sample worthy! I think it will be quite popular.

I cannot wait to smell this! I really do need to get a bottle of the Amber Ylang Ylang.

Hi J! How are you?

It's quite good and I am anxious to try the parfum as well. I have been quite jaded with so many new releases but they did a good job on this.
Personally I find Cristalle a bit more lemony in the edt and in the vintage, non reformulated version it quite packs a wallop in the oakmoss department! But these greener chypres are definitely related, you're right: I can see the link with both this and Diorella as Ida mentions. (Which is a very good thing in my books! I believe in yours too)

Jen,

I think they're all well made but I predict Amber Ylang Ylang might be more suited to your tastes (from what I know of them, at least).

E, I am loving your review!

I have Tuberose Gardenia. I admit it took me several testings to finally "get" it, but once I did, I fell heartily.

And JWM sounds just as lovely. I'm loving your reference to the sixties-early seventies vibe that the fragrance exudes, because I am a true child of that era.

So, I think I will tool on over to Nordies later this afternoon to test it.

Hugs, and thanks again for your wonderful post.

Hi darling R!

Oh I fell for TG right away, but then I love gardenias (and tuberoses) and this was so life-like! (the YR one is too, but it's so fleeting...)

Thanks for the compliment, it does seem like a modernised version of everything that was good in that era (although myself I can't claim personal associations with it, but I am learning through your experiences!)Hope you enjoy!

Well, your review is of course wonderful as always, dear one, but I am NOT a Lauder fan at all. Then again, if Chaya loves it....maybe I will have to swallow my pride and try it. I am scared of the Lauder saleswomen though - they are a throwback to the 70s with their blue eyeshadow and laquered hair!

Fiordiligi....

Know what you mean about the salespeople at many of the Lauder counters...yet, ironically, they always steer me away from the "old" scents. Hence, I feel lucky that Ulta stocks Aliage and Azuree, as well as Private Collection (original). But off to department store land I shall go for nouveau PC...despite eyeshadow and Aqua Net.

Can't say I've worn any of the Lauders since coughjuniorhighschoolcough, when it was Youth Dew. But I have high expectations for this one, and Chaya's comment amped them up a notch.

I doubt I'll find it here in lil' ole Ky., but maybe I can talk my SA at BG into sending a sample. If not I'm sure the PC will get it.

Great review; I loved the history as I also wore Fidji and Norell back in the day. Have either of them survived relatively intact?

Norell has changed a bit, as has Fidji- but some older bottles for sale on'line are in pretty good shape.

Fiordi- I fully understand your reservations, my dear.
I have them too.
But they got this one right....

Is it edgy as PC oroginal ? NO.
But it feels beautifully blended, harmonious, and classy; I get a touch of 'divine decay'in the jasmine-
Along with a truly lyrical feel.

It's not a superficial scent, by any means.

E-
By Amouage $$$, I refer to the going rate of $325 for the 1oz. perfume spray...
Perfume has gone up by $25 since Amber Ylang Ylang came out.
EDP is $80 and $135 [ or thereabouts], I believe.

Thanks Chaya! I have some pretty fond memories of Fidji.

And to think that I was out shopping this weekend and forgot to look for this! *Smacks head* Oh well, next weekend?

I'm not a Lauder fan, but I have gone through a couple of decants and samples of Tuberose Gardenia. I like it quite a bit. AYY, didn't really do much for me, which was surprising, given that I like most warm amber-based scents. But this new one sounds lovely. Even the name is compelling me to try it.